WEDDING FLOWERS: Tiara Thursday
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Showing posts with label Tiara Thursday. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tiara Thursday. Show all posts

Tiara Thursday: Queen Victoria's Orange Blossom Wreath

Queen Elizabeth II is on a state visit to Germany - which is being covered in full at the Vault - and she's really working the Saxe-Coburg and Gotha angle with jewels courtesy of Prince Albert and Queen Victoria (including a particularly spectacular turn at the state banquet last night). Today's feature, however, is one Victoria and Albert jewel that she won't be wearing.

Sentimentality ran high in Victorian era jewelry, including in the collection of the monarch that gave the era its name. Queen Victoria placed special significance on the all the jewelry that her husband, Prince Albert, gave her and designed for her. This was a great portion of her jewel collection, as Albert's eye for design took charge of the royal gems during his life. We've admired several of the tiaras to which his name was attached - Queen Victoria's Sapphire Coronet, her Emerald and Diamond Tiara, and her Oriental Circlet, for example - but none of those headpieces were quite as personal as her Orange Blossom Wreath.
Queen Victoria's Orange Blossom Parure (headdress, two brooches, and earrings)
As a present for their sixth wedding anniversary in February 1846, Albert gave Victoria a wreath of white porcelain orange blossoms with gold leaves on a braided black velvet band with a silk ribbon tie at the back. The wreath includes four oranges made from green enamel to represent the four children they had at that time, but that wasn't the only meaningful touch.
The selection of orange blossom was filled with significance for the couple. The flower represented chastity in the language of flowers; it was also associated with betrothal, as emphasized when Albert sent Victoria a brooch designed as a white porcelain and gold sprig of orange blossom after their engagement. Victoria wore fresh orange blossoms on their wedding day, and just as her gown created a trend for white wedding dresses, she started a trend for orange blossom jewelry. Albert turned his engagement gift into a parure (matched set) by giving her another brooch and a pair of matching earrings in December 1845. The wreath, given a couple months later, was the last piece of the parure.
Victoria and Albert, 1854. She may be wearing this wreath.
Queen Victoria loved the gift, writing in her diary that "it is such a lovely wreath & such a dear kind thought of Albert's." She wore pieces of the parure for all of their wedding anniversaries until Albert's death in 1861. After he died, she had the set placed on display in the room where he died at Windsor Castle. The orange blossom parure was not meant to be worn by anyone else, and so the pieces have not been; they are in the Royal Collection and are solely for display.

You can see the parure on display right now, as a matter of fact: Painting Paradise: The Art of the Garden at The Queen's Gallery at Buckingham Palace includes the orange blossom jewels and runs through October of this year. (Thank you to All That Glitters for the heads up!)

Photos: Royal Collection/Queen Elizabeth II / Wikimedia Commons

Tiara Thursday: Princess Sofia's Emerald and Diamond Tiara

There were plenty of rumors flying around that Sofia Hellqvist would get a new tiara for her wedding to Prince Carl Philip of Sweden. Those types of rumors are not uncommon before a big event, but it is uncommon that they turned out to be true. Sofia joined the ranks of brides in colorful tiaras as she walked down the aisle wearing a diamond and emerald tiara never before seen on the Swedish royal scene. Designed in the Art Deco style, it includes a series of graduated diamond palmette motifs topped by a set of graduated pear-shaped emeralds.
Princess Sofia's Emerald and Diamond Tiara
The royal court stated that the tiara was a gift from King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia to Princess Sofia. Unfortunately, no other information was given, and further questions about the tiara’s history - was it newly made for Sofia? An older piece purchased by the King and Queen? - remain unanswered. There has been much speculation, but opinions still differ. (Additionally, many wondered if the emeralds could be removed from the top and possibly replaced by other stones; from what we can see of the back, it doesn’t look like it is set up that way right now.)
A new tiara for a royal bride is an unusual thing these days, but this acquisition made a lot of sense in the context of the Swedish royal family’s tiara collection. In addition to the tiaras that belong to the family foundation and are available to borrow, most of the ladies in the family have tiaras of their own, whether they were eighteenth birthday gifts, inheritances, or pieces given to or designated for them otherwise. Sofia now has the same. And even though the court's statement indicates that it belongs to Sofia and not the family foundation, this is now the only emerald tiara in the family – something that was a notable omission for such a large collection.
Needless to say, I’m very curious to see how Sofia wears the tiara in the years to come. I’m also interested to see if any additional emerald pieces will be worn with it. The family has an emerald demi-parure, which seems to be a piece only selectively loaned out, but Queen Silvia also has a few sets of modern emerald jewels that would make a nice pairing (such as this one). As always, we also remain hopeful that more information about the tiara will come to light some day.

As a bridal tiara: yay or nay?

Photos: via Getty Images and SVT

Tiara Thursday: Queen Sophia's Diamond and Pearl Tiara

The lone tiara belonging to Princess Christina of Sweden, one of the sisters of King Carl XVI Gustaf, was made by Ribbhagen from small old cut diamonds and small pearls. It was a petite diadem, but one with a strong family ties. Along with other pieces such as the Nine Prong Tiara and Queen Sophia's Star and Pearl Tiara, it came from Queen Sophia of Sweden and Norway (1836-1913), the wife of Oscar II. Sophia left the tiara to her granddaughter, Elsa Cedergren (1893-1996). Elsa then returned the tiara to the working royal family by giving it to her goddaughter, Princess Christina, as an 18th birthday present.
Queen Sophia's Diamond and Pearl Tiara
As the only one of King Carl Gustaf's sisters that continues to attend regular royal events, Princess Christina has plenty of tiara opportunities and she regularly wore Queen Sophia's small tiara, alternating it with tiaras borrowed from the family jewel stash. The tiara and the rest of Princess Christina's personal jewels were kept in a safe in the home she shares with her husband near the Royal Palace. In late May 2012, Christina went to the safe and made a startling discovery: the tiara, together with several other jewels, was gone.
The Nobel Prize Ceremony, 1964. Christina is far left in Queen Sophia's tiara, Queen Louise is center in the Baden Fringe Tiara, Princess Sibylla is to the right in the Connaught Tiara.
A couple years prior to that discovery, Princess Christina's husband, Tord Magnuson, had made the acquaintance of a 19-year-old refugee. The boy arrived in Sweden without family, and Tord had become his mentor. The couple welcomed him into their home, even at times inviting him to stay with them. While alone in the apartment in April 2012, he stumbled upon the secret compartment that held the key to their safe.
The theft came in two waves. He first removed a bounty that included a gold bracelet given to Princess Christina by the Emperor of Ethiopia during a 1956 state visit, two rings (an aquamarine from Christina's great-grandmother, Helena of Waldeck and Pyrmont, valued at 25,000 SEK, and a large diamond royal heirloom valued at 450,000 SEK), and a pair of gold cufflinks that belonged to Gustaf VI Adolf (30,000 SEK). These items, he later said, were sold for a measly 9,000 SEK (just over $1,000) to a pair of drug dealers apparently intent on melting them down . On May 18th, he was at the home to help serve at a private party the couple were throwing, and used the opportunity to reenter the safe. This time, he took the tiara. He later stopped at a bridge and tossed the tiara - still in its black storage bag - into the water.
Nobel 2010
The theft was discovered a few days later. The thief tearfully confessed his crime to Princess Christina and her husband, but efforts to recover the jewels sold to the drug dealers were unsuccessful, as were all efforts by divers to recover the tiara. The tiara's value was placed at 350,000 SEK, bringing the minimum total value of the theft to 855,000 SEK (over $100,000).
Nobel 2011, the tiara's last big appearance
It was a small tiara that tended to disappear in her hair even with a tall base, but it must have been light and easy to wear and I would imagine Princess Christina misses having it at her disposal. Since it went missing, she has continued her frequent use of the Six Button Tiara (she also happens to be the best wearer of that tiara, so that works out well). She has also begun to borrow her sister Princess Margaretha's tiara, the Swedish Aquamarine Kokoshnik Tiara, and it's been nice to see her with an additional option after losing her own.

Where did this one rank on your list of favorite small tiaras?

Photos:  Kungahuset / via Getty Images

Tiara Thursday: The Dutch Ears of Wheat Tiara

Last week, Queen Máxima dipped into a part of the Dutch jewel collection she had previously left untouched, wearing a few of the family's diamond ears of wheat as hair ornaments. These may be small jewels, but they have a big history.
The Dutch Ears of Wheat Tiara
They are thought to have a Russian origin and are traced back to Queen Catherine of Württemberg (1788-1819, born Grand Duchess Catherine Pavlovna of Russia). Catherine's daughter Sophie (1818-1877) was the first wife of King William III of the Netherlands, and she brought the set of diamond ears of wheat to their Dutch home. They have remained in the royal family ever since, and are part of the family foundation.
Princess Margriet (left), Princess Irene (right)
Queen Máxima's use of three in barrette style was a reminder that they haven't always been set in tiara form. Using them in traditional tiara style became the norm during the reign of Queen Juliana (1909-2004; reign 1948-1980), and the tiara was worn particularly by Juliana's three youngest daughters (Princesses Irene, Margriet, and Christina). The current tiara frame allows for four, six, or eight ears of wheat to be set in two piles on either side of the head. The two lowest ears nearly join in the middle, but apart from that, there is no center design element.
Princess Laurentien
Princess Margriet used the tiara as a young princess and has continued to be the royal family member that uses the tiara most frequently for gala occasions. Princess Laurentien has also given it a try, but the Ears of Wheat have found their greatest recognition as a bridal tiara.
Princess Anita
All four of Princess Margriet's daughters-in-law (Princesses Marilène, Annette, Anita, and Aimée) wore the Ears of Wheat Tiara for their religious wedding ceremonies. Princess Irene's daughter, Princess Margarita, wear the tiara for her first wedding. And it's most recent bridal outing was on Irene's daughter-in-law, Princess Viktória, who wore it for her 2013 nuptials.
Princess Viktória
The brides have used the tiara with varying numbers of diamond elements, sometimes ending up hiding those elements with the pouf of a veil, which is one downside to using this as a bridal diadem. But the upside is that a veil can even out the somewhat sparse middle section of the tiara, helping avoid the unfortunate squaring off of the head that this tiara can cause when not backed by enough hair. Ears of wheat are a recurring motif in jewelry of the time and in tiaras, even though the long and skinny shapes aren't necessarily easy to adapt to a tiara design. It's always a surprise to be reminded that there are pieces in the royal collection that haven't been touched by Máxima's quest to leave no stone unturned (literally), but at the same time, I can't blame her for leaving this tiara alone.

Who do you think wears this one best?

Photos: via Getty Images and gahetNA//Fotocollectie Anefo/Nationaal Fotopersbureau

Tiara Thursday: The Roxburghe Tiaras

A while ago I mentioned a Sotheby's sale including pieces from the estate of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe, which included three tiaras. The sale was on May 12. Today, we're taking a closer look at those diadems. Buckle up, you're in for a triple tiara treat...
Our three tiaras in action, modeled before the sale
Born in 1915, Mary was the daughter of the Marquess of Crewe and his second wife, Lady Peggy Primrose. She was named after her godmother, Queen Mary. In 1935, she married George "Bobo" Innes-Ker, the 9th Duke of Roxburghe. Society life rolled on as usual for the couple, including a role for the Duchess as a trainbearer to Queen Elizabeth at the 1937 coronation, until 1953. Eighteen years after their marriage, her husband abruptly (and apparently without stated reason) tried to have Mary evicted from Floors Castle, his ducal seat. Thus began a marital feud that lasted six long weeks, Mary refusing to leave the castle while the Duke shut her out of as many amenities as he could, including telephone, electricity, and gas. She survived with the help of sympathetic neighbors including the Earl of Home, future prime minister, who stepped in to negotiate an end to the standoff. The Duchess of Roxburghe was granted a divorce in London. The couple had no children. (The Duke swiftly remarried and had two sons by his second wife.)

Video: On Mary and some of her auctioned jewels, including unrelated jewels at the sale. For a video showing West Horsley Place, click here.
Mary made her life in London after the divorce and eventually inherited a country estate, West Horsley Place, when her mother passed away. She did not remarry and did not have children of her own. When she died in 2014 at the age of 99, her estate passed to her nephew, television presenter Bamber Gascoigne. West Horsley Place is in desperate need of extensive repairs, and she assumed he would end up selling the mansion and estate. Mr. Gascoigne, however, decided to go the opposite route. The Sotheby's auction was designed to raise funds to keep the house and make the necessary repairs. It reminds me of the strategy Princess Gloria of Thurn and Taxis used to keep the family fortune afloat in the 1990s, selling things that can reasonably be bought again (such as jewels) and keeping those that can't (such as historic estates), which seems quite smart to me. As an added bonus for those that love jewels, this brings several wonderful pieces to our attention.

Among other gems, the auction included three tiaras:

The premiere piece in the collection is a unique diamond tiara by Cartier that dates from the 1930s. An Art Deco geometric treasure, it is set with circular-cut diamonds and topped by a series of 31 collet-set diamonds. The case from Cartier is stamped with the monogram and coronet of Mary, Duchess of Roxburghe. This is the most expensive of the three tiaras, selling for more than $2.5 million.

A more imposing diamond tiara went for nearly $850,000, a piece that dates from the last quarter of the 19th century. The design features 20 swinging pear-shaped diamonds dangling amidst rose and cushion-shaped diamonds forming scroll and fleur de lys motifs and a base with lozenge and trefoil motifs. It feels like a cross between the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara, with its lozenge base, and the Fife Tiara, with its dangling pear drops, which is a very good thing by my book. And this one has added flexibility: the tiara detaches from the bandeau base to become a necklace, while the bandeau itself breaks down into two separate sections.

The last of the three tiaras is a ruby and diamond diadem of a similar age to the older diamond tiara, dating from the later half of the 19th century. The tall piece features rose, cushion, and circular-cut diamonds in foliate motifs over ruby baselines, with a central lyre design set with diamonds and rubies. The older pieces in the collection, including this ruby tiara and the diamond tiara above, possibly belonged to Mary's maternal grandmother, Hannah Primrose, Countess of Rosebery (you may remember her from our recent discussion on the Rosebery Pearl and Diamond Tiara). A matching ruby and diamond bracelet is inscribed on the back with a memorial to "my beloved grandmother Sara Cohen." This tiara brought in the lowest price at auction, just over $100,000. (See? You don't need a house. Or part of a house. You could have a tiara instead. Your loss.)

Which of these three would you most like to take home?

Photos: via Getty Images and Sotheby's video

Tiara Thursday: Queen Amélie's Diamond Tiara

Queen Amélie's Diamond Tiara
In 1886, Princess Amélie of Orleans (1865-1951) married the Duke of Braganza, later King Carlos I of Portugal. Gifts of jewelry poured in, among them this important tiara, a present from her father-in-law King Luís I. Commissioned for the occasion by Portuguese crown jewelers Leitão & Irmão, it is made from hundreds of diamonds set in silver and gold and features fleur de lys motifs separated by rows of diamond collets, the largest of which top the tiara. It's an impressive piece, and it was a fitting tiara for a future queen consort.
Wedding gifts including this tiara (center). At right is a matching necklace given by Queen Maria Pia.
As it turned out, Amélie was to be the last queen consort of Portugal. Her husband and eldest son were assassinated in 1908. Her younger son became king, but his reign lasted only until 1910, when the monarchy was overthrown. The royal family went into exile, and this tiara went with them, basically disappearing for decades.
Video: Part of the 1995 Braganza wedding
When Queen Amélie died, she returned the tiara to the line of claimants to the Portuguese throne by leaving it to her godson, Duarte Pio, the current Duke of Braganza. Still, the tiara would not be seen again until the Duke married Isabel de Herédia on May 13, 1995, more than 40 years after Amélie's death. The new Duchess of Braganza perched the grand diadem on top of an elaborate hairstyle with flowers tucked all around for their wedding, the first royal wedding in Portugal since Amélie wed Carlos in 1886.
Amélie (left) and Isabel (right)
The Duke and Duchess of Braganza continue to have close ties to certain monarchies in Europe, and they do attend large royal gatherings. But this is not the tiara we see on the Duchess at those events; so far, she has just worn it in Portugal for their wedding and for official portraits. Luckily, she has others to pick from when a tiara is required (a small diamond bandeau that belonged to the Duke's mother is one option). And though I wish we could see this one more often, the way she uses it does seem a fitting tribute to the tiara's heritage.

Does this earn a spot on your list of favorite diamond tiaras?

Photos: Cardoso/Portuguese Royal House, Leitão & Irmão, Wikimedia Commons

Tiara Thursday: The Swedish Diamond Bandeau

The Swedish Diamond Bandeau
We've featured a few tiaras here that have sparked debate as to whether they should even qualify as a "tiara" proper, and not just some kind of sparkly headband. The line between a bandeau tiara and a fancy headband can be a fine one, and today's tiara sits right on that line.
Victoria
Often referred to as the Swedish Diamond Bandeau, this is probably less of a tiara by design and more of a diamond rivière (a necklace, usually, of a strand of single round diamonds) repurposed as a hair ornament. The bandeau features two such strands across the head.
Silvia
The Swedish royal ladies do like to get creative with their tiara hair. They often take intricate hairstyles and add more jewels to them, such as brooches or strands of diamonds woven through (a strategy used by Queen Silvia for some of her Nobel Prize Awards hairstyles over the years, including the example above). Crown Princess Victoria has used rivières to further embellish the bases of both the Four and Six Button Tiaras (for Nobel 2011 and 2012). It's hard to differentiate between these, so it's hard to know how many rivières they have available for such experimentation, or just how many different uses each one has had.
Victoria
Victoria has worn the Diamond Bandeau on a few of the rare occasions when she's worn her hair down at formal events, and Princess Madeleine has also used it to great effect. Since this particular arrangement has been worn multiple times and has been worn to tiara events, seemingly classifying it as another tiara option from plentiful family collection, I'm calling it a tiara here. It's a baby sister to the Dutch Diamond Bandeau, giving you the impact of a tiara without the full weight of one, which seems handy. And I'm all for the dream of being able to play around with your spare diamond strands...

What say you: 
Yay for all gem creativity!
or 
Nay! Just put a proper tiara on already, why don't you?

Photos: Kungahuset and via Getty Images

Tiara Thursday: The Ansorena Princess Fleur de Lys Tiara

For at least five years before we ever saw it in action, there were reports of this tiara’s existence. It was said the Princess of Asturias (as Queen Letizia was at the time- hence the Princesa name many articles have given it this week, and the name we’ll use here) had been given a new tiara in diamonds and pearls, with a detachable diamond fleur de lys brooch in the center – the only portion that had actually been worn. Spanish jeweler Ansorena, who made the tiara, commented on its creation and pictures were published. But as the years went on and the tiara remained unused, it started to seem like some kind of mythical, somehow imaginary jewel…which only made its final debut last week an even sweeter surprise.
The Ansorena Princess Fleur de Lys Tiara
The reports were finally proven correct at the gala dinner in Copenhagen for Queen Margrethe’s 75th birthday. The tiara is indeed a creation of pearls and diamonds, set in 18 carat white gold. There are 450 diamonds forming a base of looping swirls and the center fleur de lys motif, and the diadem is topped with 10 large Australian pearls, selected from 3,000 gems to get just the right pieces for the tiara. The fleur de lys is a Bourbon symbol and part of the King’s coat of arms, and Queen Letizia likes to use the diamond brooch with her ribands for state banquets and other gala occasions.
It was made by Ansorena (other Ansorena tiaras have used the same loop design) and it’s not the only Ansorena fleur de lys tiara in the Spanish royal collection. The best known example is the biggest piece available to Spanish queens, a wedding gift from King Alfonso XIII to Queen Victoria Eugenia in 1906. Letizia’s version doesn’t have quite such a cut-and-dried gifting story.

Creating the tiara was Ansorena’s idea, a notion that came to the then-head of the family-owned company while he watched Felipe and Letizia’s 2004 wedding. He decided the new princess should have a tiara and set about designing one, considering other designs and even the use of aquamarine stones before deciding on the final model. Most Spanish reports I've read since the tiara’s debut seem to have settled on it as a gift from King Felipe VI to Queen Letizia for the couple’s fifth wedding anniversary in 2009, purchased for an estimated 50,000 euros, but earlier accounts indicate that Ansorena gave it to the royal family. From the actual giver of the gift to the timeline (it was made earlier than 2009, some say it could have been given as early as 2007 or so, and Letizia has been wearing the brooch portion since at least 2008) to whether or not Felipe had any input in the design, the details vary from one article to the next.
Wearing the brooch
When I first wrote about this tiara in 2011, I said that I suspected that the ambiguity surrounding the tiara's origin suited the royal family just fine, because while accepting lavish gifts is dicey territory, so is the purchase of new jewelry when your country's economy is struggling. Certainly the economic issues Spain has been dealing with coupled with the harsh criticism the royal family can draw are likely reasons behind the delay in the tiara’s appearance, as well as Letizia’s choice to give it a “soft opening” of sorts at a foreign royal event.
We’ve seen a slow and steady increase in her use of jewels since Letizia became the queen consort. The Danish banquet brought not only the new tiara, but a double clip-style brooch she hadn’t been seen in previously, her Cartier diamond bracelet, and even a Bulgari ring said to have been a gift from Felipe after the birth of one of their daughters. I was never quite sure what to make of the new tiara, and I’m still not sure even now that we’ve seen it – it does look much better in use than I thought it would and it sits nicely on her head, though the design overall is not a favorite. Still, I am glad to see it and to see her have a tiara that is her own and not one tied to any other member of the family.

It’s been a week since the big debut and I'm sure you've been thinking of nothing else since, so let’s have your verdicts…

This tiara: A winner, or no?

(By the way, if you need to see it in action again before making your judgment – you know, for science purposes – here’s part 1 and here’s part 2 of the dinner on YouTube.)

(And also by the way, no second post today!)

Photos: Ansorena, and via Getty Images as indicated

Tiara Thursday (on a Friday): The Danish Turquoise Bandeau

The Danish Turquoise Bandeau
One of the smaller pieces in Queen Margrethe's collection is this bandeau tiara, made of diamond and turquoise stones forming a small wreath of daisy-like flowers (all the more perfect considering Margrethe's nickname is Daisy). The tiara is a converted bracelet, and it comes as part of a set that includes earrings and a trio of brooches that can be used in an array of different formations, including as necklace pendants. According to Dronningens Kjoler by Katia Johansen, a book on the Queen's wardrobe written with her cooperation and which mentions this parure briefly, the history of this set is thought to go all the way back to Catherine the Great, a.k.a. Catherine II of Russia (1729-1796).
A young Ingrid in Swedish court dress and this tiara; Margrethe with other pieces of the parure
We can definitely trace the turquoise set back to Queen Margrethe's grandmother, Princess Margaret of Connaught (1882-1920), who married Prince Gustaf Adolf of Sweden (the future King Gustaf VI Adolf) in 1905. Margaret - also nicknamed Daisy, by the way - died young and these jewels were inherited by her daughter, Princess Ingrid (1910-2000). Ingrid married the future King Frederik IX of Denmark and brought the set to its current Danish home.
Margrethe
Queen Ingrid was only pictured in the tiara as a young girl, and apart from a loan or two (it was worn in 1964 by Margrethe, for example), it largely disappeared from the public eye for several decades. Now owned by Queen Margrethe, it has experienced something of a resurgence in recent years. The bandeau is primarily used for some of Queen Margrethe's more restrained state banquet appearances.
Theodora
Queen Margrethe has also loaned the bandeau out on at least one occasion, something she does not often do. She surprised tiara watchers in 2012 during the celebrations for her 40th year on the throne by loaning the tiara to her niece, Princess Theodora of Greece (see above, or also here).

Video: The tiara in action at a state banquet in 2011. Actually quite sparkly for one so small and with so many opaque stones.
I've always found this tiara rather youthful; with the combination of the bright color, the small size, and the flower motif, I'd call it cute, even. And I'd love to continue seeing it on different family members, but I'm also happy just to see it in use by the Queen. Not everyone loves turquoise jewels, but with this set and her more modern pieces, she seems to have a true appreciation for the bright blue stone (as do I!).

Too cute, or just right?

Photos: DR / Holger Motzkau via Wikimedia Commons / via Getty Images as indicated

Tiara Thursday: The Dutch Emerald (and Pearl) Parure Tiara

The Dutch Emerald (and Pearl) Parure Tiara
The Dutch royal family loves to get creative with their jewels, that's a fact. I don't know if it's because they actually have the most flexible royal collection around or just because they happen to use the full range of flexibility that they have, but they mix and match and switch things up like nobody else, and this tiara is the perfect example. Not only has it changed shape over the years, it has also managed to change colors.
Juliana
Made just before 1900 with emeralds thought to have belonged to Wilhelmina of Prussia (1751-1820), wife of William V of Orange, the design has a central emerald in a swirling knotted diamond base with emeralds on top. It originally had three emerald and diamond finials, which was reduced at one point to the single central pear-shaped topper. Queen Juliana and other family members wore it this way, including upside down (as demonstrated above).
Máxima
Currently, it can once again be worn with three emerald and diamond ornaments on top. The tiara is part of a whole parure with a necklace, brooch, earrings, and more - pieces that can be combined in so many different ways (and with other parts of the family collection, too) that it's hard to keep track of them.
Annemarie
In advance of the wedding of the current King and Queen, the emeralds were swapped out for pearls as a possible wedding tiara for Máxima. She ended up using the Pearl Button Tiara with stars on her big day, but the pearl version stuck around. It did eventually get its day in the sun as a wedding tiara, when Annemarie Gualthérie van Weezel wore it to wed the Duke of Parma (son of Princess Irene of the Netherlands) in 2010 (above).
Máxima
This is one of the pieces from the family collection that has been worn by most of the royal ladies at one point in time, including Princess Beatrix, Princess Margriet, Princess Irene, and Princess Laurentien, in addition to those shown here. And my opinion of the piece varies with every outing; those that manage to hide the bottom of the v-shaped base win my affection, and those that don't leave me in fear that it will slide right off their faces. But cheers for flexibility either way, right?

Which would you pick: pearls or emeralds?

Photos: ANP and via Getty Images

Tiara Thursday: Princess Thyra's Sapphire Tiara

Our coverage of the Dutch state visit to Denmark last week was missing a tiara! Princess Elisabeth of Denmark, Queen Margrethe's first cousin, attended the state banquet but apparently entered separately, so we didn't get a great look at her. But she was there, and she was wearing this tiara:
Princess Thyra's Sapphire Tiara
Set in gold and silver and dating from latter half of the 1800s, it includes small diamond designs between five large scrolling diamond elements, each with a sapphire at the center. The sapphires can be swapped out for turquoise stones. The tiara belonged to Princess Thyra of Denmark (1880-1945), who was the daughter of King Frederik VIII and Queen Louise. Thyra never married and had no children, and she left the tiara to her niece, Princess Caroline-Mathilde of Denmark (1912-1995).
Thyra (left), Caroline-Mathilde (right)
Caroline-Mathilde was married to Knud, Hereditary Prince of Denmark, the second son of King Christian X and Queen Alexandrine. (Had history gone differently, Knud could have been the King of Denmark one day. He was next in line to his older brother, Frederik IX, who had only daughters at a time when women couldn't inherit the throne. But the law was changed in 1953, and a young future Queen Margrethe and her sisters jumped ahead of him in line.) The couple had three children, and this tiara went to their only daughter, Princess Elisabeth. Princess Elisabeth is still in the line of succession for the Danish throne, and she sometimes attends official engagements. When a tiara is required, this is her constant favorite.
Elisabeth
It really does remind you of a blue version of the Edward VII Ruby Tiara in Sweden, doesn't it? Princess Thyra's Sapphire Tiara has a lower profile and five larger elements instead of three, so it feels a little more balanced. It also seems easier to wear with a modern hairstyle (the Swedish ruby is truly made for the large Edwardian 'dos popular when it was created), although when worn tilted back (as it is above), it can practically disappear. Nevertheless, I'm always happy to see Princess Elisabeth out and about and to see this one in action.

Where does this rank on your list of favorite sapphire tiaras?

Photos: Bodilbinner/DR/Sean Gallup via Getty Images

Tiara Thursday: The Rosebery Pearl and Diamond Tiara

The Rosebery Pearl and Diamond Tiara
This striking tiara was once the property of a woman said to have been the wealthiest woman in England, Hannah, Countess of Rosebery (1851-1890), and was an important member of a jewel collection rich enough to rival a royal collection. The Rosebery Pearl and Diamond Tiara has a base of clusters of large button (bouton) natural pearls surrounded by old-cut diamonds and a top of seven natural pearl and diamond drops, all set in silver and gold. It's a versatile diadem with multiple detachable pieces; the top pieces can be removed (in the same fashion as the Londonderry Tiara, also crafted by Garrard) leaving the bottom row as a smaller tiara, and the buttons can also be used to form six brooches with the top pieces as pendants. A bracelet and brooch, each featuring more clusters of button pearls and diamonds, completed the set.
The bracelet, brooch, and tiara close ups
The tiara dates from about 1878, the same year Hannah de Rothschild married the 5th Earl of Rosebery. Born into the famous banking empire, she was the only child of Mayer de Rothschild and when he died in 1874, the fortune she inherited made her the richest woman in England at the time. Her aristocratic marriage did not come without obstacles, caused particularly by religion (she was Jewish, he was not, and there were hurdles to jump on both sides), but they became an influential couple and her money financed her popular husband's rise through the political structure. He eventually became prime minister, but she sadly would not live to see it; she died suddenly at the age of 39 in 1890.
A Christie's employee shows off the tiara, brooch, and bracelet
Following her death, her husband stored her jewels for nearly 20 years, until their eldest son married and the jewels were split between their four children. Harry, Lord Dalmeny (the future 6th Earl of Rosebery), wed in 1909 and this set of pearl and diamond jewelry was given to his bride, Dorothy Grosvenor, granddaughter of the 1st Duke of Westminster and sister to the 3rd Duke. It passed down in the family and was last known to be part of the collection of the current Duke and Duchess of Westminster, because it was included in a magazine feature on their family jewels. It was sold by Christie's in 2011 as the property of a private collector, where the tiara went for $1.9 million and the brooch and bracelet together brought in nearly $950,000.

Video: The tiara modeled prior to auction
The Rosebery Pearl and Diamond Tiara was purchased by the Qatar Museums Authority Collection, as it was marked when included in a recent Victoria & Albert Museum exhibit on pearls. It's an important piece, thanks to its history (Christie's called the set "Victorian ancestral jewels of the first rank") and the large and rare size of its natural pearls, and I'm glad it is with an owner that frequently loans items for display around the world. It is such a curious and theatrical piece when the top row of pearls is installed - those drop pearls would be inverted on most other tiaras, and the triangular effect of this set up is quite dramatic - I can't help but think it would also be right at home on a movie set too.

Too dramatic for you, or just right?

Photos: Christie's, Auctioneers video, Getty Images as indicated

Tiara Thursday (on a Friday): Empress Farah's Turquoise Tiara

The Duchess of Gloucester's outing of the Teck Turquoise Tiara this week has put me in a turquoise mood, so let's chat about a tiara that's grown to be rather a favorite of mine. This one was worn by Farah Pahlavi, the third wife and Empress (or Shahbanou) to the last Shah of Iran.
Empress Farah's Turquoise Tiara
It's only fitting that a great turquoise tiara would by a Persian shahbanou; mining of turquoise and decorating with the stone is part of Iran's history, and Persian turquoise is famed for its quality. More than one turquoise tiara is tied to the dynasty, but this is my favorite of the known options, like a colorful version of the Antique Pearl Tiara from the Netherlands. The base contains a central round turquoise stone with oval turquoises to the sides in a diamond framework, and a top of nine upright turquoise stones in a graduating height arrangement. A pair of pendant earrings were worn with the tiara, and there was also a turquoise necklace to pair with it.
Farah
This tiara was made for Farah's personal use, unlike the Noor-ol-Ain Tiara or her Seven Emerald Tiara, which were created as part of the crown jewels and remained with the state when the monarchy was abolished. However, the Empress did not take this tiara with her when she left the country, and today she does not wear tiaras to the royal events she attends. But when it was in use, she wore it to perfection (the high center point made it an especially good fit for the tall updos she sported back then), and it's a shame we don't get to see it today. But of course I would say that, since I think it might be my favorite of the Iranian tiaras.

Where does this rank on your list of favorite Iranian tiaras?

Photos: Wikimedia Commons

Tiara Thursday: The Barberini Sapphire Tiara

The Barberini Sapphire Tiara
So many of the sapphire tiaras we know today are fairly symmetrical, even architectural, in their design, so an asymmetrical floral option makes for a refreshing change of pace. Joining other sapphire floral tiaras such as the Ogilvy Tiara, the Barberini Sapphire Tiara features a flowering wreath design. A rose-cut diamond branch is the base for old-cut diamond flowers with an oval collet sapphire at the center of each, and more sapphires are scattered along the branch. The stones are mounted in silver and gold, and the tiara dates from around 1850.
Other pieces in the set
The tiara is part of a parure that includes a necklace, brooch, and girandole earrings. The accompanying pieces are also notable for their commitment to the floral theme, when many parures might opt for a simpler design for the rest of the set. These were among the jewels that belonged to the Barberini family, an old Italian noble family that counts a pope among its ancestors (Pope Urban VIII) and who gave their name to the Palazzo Barberini in Rome, today the location of the National Gallery of Ancient Art.
The tiara is modeled before its most recent auction
These particular pieces are known to us via their history of auctions, rather than their former owners. The jewels were first sold by Christie’s as a parure in 1971 for $18,850. They were sold again, this time as four separate pieces, in 2009, and brought in close to $250,000 all together ($100,144 for the tiara alone). Floral tiaras are not my favorite overall, but this one does have a charm that makes me wish I’d had the checkbook power to scoop these up.

Sapphires in your floral tiaras, yes or no?

Photos: Christie's / Marco Secchi via Getty Images

Tiara Thursday: Queen Marie José's Beauharnais Pearl Tiara

Today's tiara is unusual for a variety of reasons.
Queen Marie José's Beauharnais Pearl Tiara
First, of course, is the design. Pearl tiaras are often more diamond heavy than pearl heavy, but the design of this coronet-like piece relies on small pearls to outline the engraved gold base and the triangular and fan motifs above it, with small diamonds just as accents. It was made around 1829 in Paris, making it one of the older tiaras still in existence today - but adding another point in the unusual column, it looks mostly the same today as it did back then. Many diadems dating back that far have been remodeled heavily over time, but this one has only been modified to add an extension piece at the back.
Stéphanie
The tiara belonged to the adopted daughter of Napoleon, Stéphanie de Beauharnais (1789-1860). Stéphanie married the Grand Duke of Baden, and she was pictured wearing the tiara (above). The tiara made its way to the Belgian royal family, who are related to Stéphanie courtesy of her granddaughter Princess Marie of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, Countess of Flanders (1845-1912), and it eventually ended up in the possession of Princess Marie José of Belgium (1906-2001), daughter of King Albert I and granddaughter of the aforementioned Countess of Flanders. (It should be noted that some references to this tiara tie it back to Empress Joséphine, Napoleon's first wife, who died prior to the reported approximate creation date of the piece, and some paths of ownership tie it to Empress Charlotte of Mexico, born a Belgian princess, at some point.)
Marie José
The tiara's main modification came in 1924, when the band was extended at the back so that Princess Marie José could wear it in the fashionable style across the forehead to her first court ball. In 1930, the princess married the future King Umberto II of Italy. The tiara stayed in Queen Marie José's possession until her death in 2001, when it passed to her daughter, Princess Maria Gabriella of Savoy. It was auctioned at Christie's in 2007 (as were other pieces from the late queen's jewel collection, including the Empress Joséphine Tiara), and it sold for $85,190. Adding another layer to the rarity of the tiara's tale, it did not disapper into a private collection but was bought by the state of Baden-Württemberg in Germany. They purchased the tiara because of its link to the history of Mannheim Palace, which was the home of Stéphanie de Beauharnais. It is now part of the museum collection at the impressive Baroque palace.

As pearl tiaras go: Yay or Nay?

Photos: Christie's, Wikimedia

Tiara Thursday: The Russian Sapphire “Wave” Tiara

The Russian Sapphire "Wave" Tiara
Today’s featured tiara is one that has been mentioned in the comments on just about every Romanov tiara we’ve covered of late, I think, so we’re overdue to give it a proper day in the spotlight. It’s an eye-catcher to be sure, and while pretty much every Russian imperial tiara has a bit of mystery to it, thanks to the course of history, this one comes with extra intrigue. It was essentially an unknown piece of Russian treasure until evidence of its existence was unearthed in 2012. You might expect such a discovery from the files of an historic jewelry house or perhaps the depths of a wealthy private collection, but this one came from a far more surprising source: the library of the United States Geological Survey (USGS), in Reston, Virginia.
The Marie Feodorovna portrait and the sketch referenced below, with a detail of the tiara center
Mineralogist and gemologist George F. Kunz (1856-1932), who worked for the USGS as well as Tiffany & Co., left his private library to the government agency when he died. Among his treasures was a large book with a nondescript exterior and a title plate in Russian that turned out to translate to The Russian Diamond Fund, with a publication date of 1922. The Diamond Fund is, to this day, the name for the Russian state’s store of their remaining crown jewels. Kunz’s book was a photo album of pieces of Russian jewelry. The USGS compared the album to another publication, Russia’s Treasure of Diamonds and Precious Stones, published in 1925 and regarded as the most complete inventory of the Russian crown jewels which were seized by the new state after the revolution, and discovered that most of the photos were printed there as well. But they also discovered that their 1922 album included photos of four additional pieces, mysteriously not included in the 1925 inventory and thus unknown to most jewel scholars: an emerald and diamond necklace, a sapphire and diamond bracelet, a sapphire and diamond bow brooch, and a sapphire and diamond diadem.
Video: The USGS discusses the discovery
The tiara in question includes nine large sapphires, each surrounded by arcs of diamonds ending in dangling diamond drops, a design reminiscent of breaking waves in the ocean. Investigation into its provenance produced a sketch that seems to depict the piece. The sketch is reproduced in Tiaras: A History of Splendour by Geoffrey Munn, where it is identified as a study by Nicholas Chevalier of the jewels worn to the 1874 wedding of Prince Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh and the Grand Duchess Marie Alexandrovna of Russia by Marie Feodorovna (née Dagmar of Denmark, 1847-1928), then the Tsarevna, wife of the heir. The same piece may be the diadem depicted in a portrait of her from the same year. (Note: The video above about the discovery briefly mentions the tiara belonging to Marie Alexandrovna instead, though the sketch itself points elsewhere as I’ve mentioned here.) These illustrations indicate that the tiara was originally worn attached to a traditional fabric covered kokoshnik headdress which was topped by what appears to be a diamond rivière.
The large table of Russian jewels, top; all four jewels discovered in USGS photos, bottom
Apart from that speculation, the rest of the story behind these four pieces remains a mystery. Three of them can be spotted on the table laden with bejeweled treasures above, but we don’t know why they were excluded from the 1925 inventory. The USGS research team was able to determine that the brooch was sold at an auction in 1927, but other record of what happened to these gems seems nonexistent so far. While it is possible that they still exist – it’s happened, things going missing for a century and then popping back up – they may also have been dismantled. Sad, but all too often true.

Would this nab a spot on your list of favorite sapphire tiaras?

Photos: USGS, USGS video, Wikimedia Commons

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